14 Temmuz 2020 Salı
12 Temmuz 2020 Pazar
10 Temmuz 2020 Cuma
4 Haziran 2020 Perşembe
HEDEFE KİLİTLENMEK
Gitmek istediğiniz yöne doğru bakın. Tüm araçlar, kamyon dahil nereye bakarsanız oraya yönlenir. Motosiklette bu durum çok daha hızlı oluşur. Dönemeçlerde çıkışa bakın. Çıkış görünmüyorsa ona en yakın ilerideki bir noktaya doğru bakın.
Dönemece hızlı girildiğinde oluşacak korku ile bakışlarınız çıkış yerine yere doğru hemen önünüze kayarsa bu durum kaza ile sonuçlanabilir.
Çift yönlü yollarda karşı yönden gelen araca bakmayın. Kendi hattınıza bakın bilhassa gece sürüşlerinde karşı yönden yaklaşan aracın farlarına bakmayın.
Omuzunuzun üzerinden sağınızı solunuzu yada aynadan arkanızı kontrol etme süreniz iki saniyeyi geçmesin. Tekrar gittiğiniz yöne doğru bakın.
Başınızı çevirdiğiniz zaman bedeninizde bunu otomatikman takip eder ve motosiklet sürücünün beden hareketlerine karşı çok duyarlıdır ve anında tepki verip yön değiştirir. Bunu hiç unutmayın.
Dönemece hızlı girildiğinde oluşacak korku ile bakışlarınız çıkış yerine yere doğru hemen önünüze kayarsa bu durum kaza ile sonuçlanabilir.
Çift yönlü yollarda karşı yönden gelen araca bakmayın. Kendi hattınıza bakın bilhassa gece sürüşlerinde karşı yönden yaklaşan aracın farlarına bakmayın.
Omuzunuzun üzerinden sağınızı solunuzu yada aynadan arkanızı kontrol etme süreniz iki saniyeyi geçmesin. Tekrar gittiğiniz yöne doğru bakın.
Başınızı çevirdiğiniz zaman bedeninizde bunu otomatikman takip eder ve motosiklet sürücünün beden hareketlerine karşı çok duyarlıdır ve anında tepki verip yön değiştirir. Bunu hiç unutmayın.
TARGET FIXATION
LOOK WHERE YOU WANT TO GO (TARGET FIXATION)
The bike will go where you are looking. Period. Successful corner execution is as simple as fixating on something at or near the exit point as soon as you are able and letting your body naturally ride towards it. A major cause of riders not negotiating a corner is when they come in too fast and their eyes shift from looking at their exit to looking down in front of them which is subsequently where they end up crashing…
The bike will go where you are looking. Period. Successful corner execution is as simple as fixating on something at or near the exit point as soon as you are able and letting your body naturally ride towards it. A major cause of riders not negotiating a corner is when they come in too fast and their eyes shift from looking at their exit to looking down in front of them which is subsequently where they end up crashing…
QUICK TURN IN
The quicker the bike is leaned, the earlier the direction change is completed, which affords you a greater margin of error to handle a misjudged turn radius or a slightly overspeed entry. Look at the diagram and you’ll also see that a quicker turn-in means you are not leaned over as long.
Quick Turning and Traction
As you might imagine, giving the handlebar a good shove introduces an abrupt force to the front tire. That’s why you want to limit using the quick turning technique when traction is limited, such as on wet or contaminated pavement. A quick turn uses more traction at the beginning of the turn, but uses less at the apex and exit. Even though more traction is used when turning quickly, good tires in dry conditions have more than enough grip to handle the extra force.
To minimize the risk of tucking the front tire, you must get most of your braking done and start easing off the brakes before you introduce forceful handlebar inputs. However, it is beneficial to maintain some front brake force as you countersteer, which compresses the front suspension and loads the front tire for more rapid turning response. Ideally, you would release the brakes a split-moment after you press on the handlebars.
NOT TO SUCK AT CORNERING
Tension at the handlebars. The front of the bike needs to be free to move up, down, and side -to-side in response to both large and small changes in the road surface. Being stiff on the handlebars interferes with this motion and causes the motorcycle to feel reluctant to turn. It also asks the tires to work harder to stay in contact with the surface. Another problem with stiff arms is that you are inhibiting the slight countersteering corrections that may need to occur to deal with changes in camber or other variations in corner surface. Loose arms allow fluid reactions.
Poor body position. Think of your bike as your dance partner who wants you to lead. In the case of the cornering dance, a slight dip of the shoulder to the inside of the curve will encourage smoother cornering. In contrast, a rider who stays upright or leans outside is stepping on the bike’s toes, causing it resist fluid cornering.
Not using the Throttle Correctly. For the motorcycle to track around the corner predictably and smoothly, the suspension must be stable and in the middle of its travel. Smooth, gradual acceleration throughout the curve produces the best results. Be sure to slow enough at the beginning of turns so that you can comfortably roll on the gas all the way to the exit. Unfortunately, a lot of riders fail to use steady throttle in corners. This is a problem, because changes in speed and drive force alter the arcing path the motorcycle takes. Abruptly chopping on or off the throttle upsets this stability and causes the bike to lift and fall in and out of the established angle of lean and introduces forces that result in a wobbly or weaving line around the corner. Note that acceleration typically makes the bike drift wide and deceleration can either cause the bike to drop into the corner more or cause it to stand up, depending on how abruptly the throttle is chopped and how the machine /tire combo responds to this input.
Not Looking through the Turn. You tend to go where you look, so look where you want to go! By keeping your visual attention through the turn and toward the corner exit, your mind is able to better manage the corner. The other advantage is that the landscape slows down when you look ahead. This reduces anxiety and helps complete the concerning process. Looking ahead will not suddenly make you a cornering master, but without habitually looking ahead, you will never become one. Keep your eyes up.
Poor body position. Think of your bike as your dance partner who wants you to lead. In the case of the cornering dance, a slight dip of the shoulder to the inside of the curve will encourage smoother cornering. In contrast, a rider who stays upright or leans outside is stepping on the bike’s toes, causing it resist fluid cornering.
Not using the Throttle Correctly. For the motorcycle to track around the corner predictably and smoothly, the suspension must be stable and in the middle of its travel. Smooth, gradual acceleration throughout the curve produces the best results. Be sure to slow enough at the beginning of turns so that you can comfortably roll on the gas all the way to the exit. Unfortunately, a lot of riders fail to use steady throttle in corners. This is a problem, because changes in speed and drive force alter the arcing path the motorcycle takes. Abruptly chopping on or off the throttle upsets this stability and causes the bike to lift and fall in and out of the established angle of lean and introduces forces that result in a wobbly or weaving line around the corner. Note that acceleration typically makes the bike drift wide and deceleration can either cause the bike to drop into the corner more or cause it to stand up, depending on how abruptly the throttle is chopped and how the machine /tire combo responds to this input.
Not Looking through the Turn. You tend to go where you look, so look where you want to go! By keeping your visual attention through the turn and toward the corner exit, your mind is able to better manage the corner. The other advantage is that the landscape slows down when you look ahead. This reduces anxiety and helps complete the concerning process. Looking ahead will not suddenly make you a cornering master, but without habitually looking ahead, you will never become one. Keep your eyes up.
CORNERING BASICS
- Look well ahead.
- Countersteer to initiate lean for the corner.
- Crack the throttle as soon as the bike is leaned. Use gentle drive at first and then progressively feed in more drive force. Roll on with more authority as lean angle is reduced near the corner exit. Steady drive creates steady cornering.
- Relax! If you established the correct angle of lean for the turn, the bike should require only slight adjustments in handlebar pressure. Corners that tighten will require you to press more on the inside bar to lean the bike more, but keep the throttle as steady as possible.
- Finish the turn. You’re not done yet. Keep looking toward the corner exit and roll on the throttle a bit more to let the bike drift toward the outside of the curve. This facilitates the “outside-inside-outside” cornering line, which I will discuss in a future post.
- Rinse and repeat for the next corner.
17 Mayıs 2020 Pazar
ARAZİDE ENDURO KULLANIMI
Enduro motorlarınızı arazide mutlaka ayakta kullanın. Bilmiyorsanız ayakta sürüşü ögrenin. Arazide oturarak kullanmak çok tehlikelidir. Bilhassa kros motorlarda.
ALFADAN TİYOLAR
Eğer motorunuzun ABS fren sistemi yoksa ve yüksek süratte ani duruş yapmanız gerekiyorsa frenleri pompalayın. Bir kerede sıkıp o vaziyette(sıkılı) tutmayın. Hafif bırakın tekrar sıkın, tekrar bırakıp sıkın. 3-5 kere. Ayak frenini de aynı anda basıp bırakın tekrar basın bırakın tekrar basın. Buna pompalamak diyoruz. Böylece tekerlerde kitlenme olmaz.
Frenlere ABS li de olsa önce hafif bir basınç uygulayın motor otursun frenler yerleşsin sonra takiben ikinci kademe olarak geregi kadar sıkın. Bu iki kademeli hareket daha emniyetlidir. Şayet ön ve arka freni fazla basıp tekerleri kitlerseniz frenlerini bırakıp tekrar kitlemeyecek kadar sıkın.
Benzin alırken akaryakıt pompalarına olabildiğince uzak durun ki hortumda benzin kalmasın. Oda deponuza aksın. Ayrıca öğlenin sıcağında değil sabah yada akşam saatleri benzin alırsanız dolum süresindeki buharlaşmadan dolayı oluşacak benzin kaybı azalır.
Öndeki arabanın ortasından takip etmeyin. Sağ veye sol tekerlek izinden gidin. Hem kolay kaçış manevrası yaparsınız hem de orta kısım genellikle yağ birikintisi olabilen yerdir. Ayrıca çukur yada kabarmadan doğan tümsekler olabilir.
Eksozdan çıkan beyaz duman yanma hücresine yağ sızdığını siyah duman ise yanmanın verimsiz/kötü (yakıtın bir kısmı yanmadan eksozdan atılıyor) olduğunun göstergesidir.
Alpaslan Kuzucan
Frenlere ABS li de olsa önce hafif bir basınç uygulayın motor otursun frenler yerleşsin sonra takiben ikinci kademe olarak geregi kadar sıkın. Bu iki kademeli hareket daha emniyetlidir. Şayet ön ve arka freni fazla basıp tekerleri kitlerseniz frenlerini bırakıp tekrar kitlemeyecek kadar sıkın.
Benzin alırken akaryakıt pompalarına olabildiğince uzak durun ki hortumda benzin kalmasın. Oda deponuza aksın. Ayrıca öğlenin sıcağında değil sabah yada akşam saatleri benzin alırsanız dolum süresindeki buharlaşmadan dolayı oluşacak benzin kaybı azalır.
Öndeki arabanın ortasından takip etmeyin. Sağ veye sol tekerlek izinden gidin. Hem kolay kaçış manevrası yaparsınız hem de orta kısım genellikle yağ birikintisi olabilen yerdir. Ayrıca çukur yada kabarmadan doğan tümsekler olabilir.
Eksozdan çıkan beyaz duman yanma hücresine yağ sızdığını siyah duman ise yanmanın verimsiz/kötü (yakıtın bir kısmı yanmadan eksozdan atılıyor) olduğunun göstergesidir.
Alpaslan Kuzucan
11 Mayıs 2020 Pazartesi
17 Nisan 2020 Cuma
7 Nisan 2020 Salı
6 Nisan 2020 Pazartesi
RIDING TIPS
Look Where You Want To Go
Car veering into your lane? Tight corner catch you out? Obstacle in the road? Lane splitting? Look at the gap, where you want to be, the spot on the track you want to reach, not at the hazard or car or obstruction. Your body and the bike will follow. Consciously think about this, force yourself to do it if necessary, it works. Practice doing it, this will save your life.
Save Your Balls, Use Your Knees
You’ve likely heard or read somewhere that, for better control, you should keep your weight off your hands while riding. But, when you’re braking heavily, it can be hard to keep that weight off your hands. The solution? Grip the tank firmly between your knees, then relax your upper body. Stomp Grip or a similar product that gives your legs better purchase on the tank can be a huge help here. Bonus: no more crushed testicles.
Blip The Throttle To Make Downshifts Smoother
Grab a lower gear as you’re braking, let the clutch out quickly, and revs temporarily spike as the engine struggles to catch up to the rear tire’s speed. Downshift too quickly and you’ll lock up the rear tire due to the engine’s compression. This limits how hot you can come into a corner, since you need to manage decreased rear wheel traction as you begin to turn. The solution? Rev matching. By blipping revs to match rear wheel speed, the engine doesn’t need to catch up all of a sudden.
Simple to explain, but takes some practice to get right because it’s all about timing and feel. You’re braking with two fingers, right? Good, use the others to quickly blip the throttle after you pull in the clutch and downshift, spiking revs to where you think they’ll be in the lower gear. If you get that right, you can just let that clutch spring back out to seamlessly engage that lower gear. You should be able to maintain consistent brake force while blipping. That, plus knowing the amount of throttle to apply and the right revs to reach is where the practice comes in. So go do that and you’ll be rewarded with smoother riding, everywhere, but especially when flying into corners.
Car veering into your lane? Tight corner catch you out? Obstacle in the road? Lane splitting? Look at the gap, where you want to be, the spot on the track you want to reach, not at the hazard or car or obstruction. Your body and the bike will follow. Consciously think about this, force yourself to do it if necessary, it works. Practice doing it, this will save your life.
Save Your Balls, Use Your Knees
You’ve likely heard or read somewhere that, for better control, you should keep your weight off your hands while riding. But, when you’re braking heavily, it can be hard to keep that weight off your hands. The solution? Grip the tank firmly between your knees, then relax your upper body. Stomp Grip or a similar product that gives your legs better purchase on the tank can be a huge help here. Bonus: no more crushed testicles.
Blip The Throttle To Make Downshifts Smoother
Grab a lower gear as you’re braking, let the clutch out quickly, and revs temporarily spike as the engine struggles to catch up to the rear tire’s speed. Downshift too quickly and you’ll lock up the rear tire due to the engine’s compression. This limits how hot you can come into a corner, since you need to manage decreased rear wheel traction as you begin to turn. The solution? Rev matching. By blipping revs to match rear wheel speed, the engine doesn’t need to catch up all of a sudden.
Simple to explain, but takes some practice to get right because it’s all about timing and feel. You’re braking with two fingers, right? Good, use the others to quickly blip the throttle after you pull in the clutch and downshift, spiking revs to where you think they’ll be in the lower gear. If you get that right, you can just let that clutch spring back out to seamlessly engage that lower gear. You should be able to maintain consistent brake force while blipping. That, plus knowing the amount of throttle to apply and the right revs to reach is where the practice comes in. So go do that and you’ll be rewarded with smoother riding, everywhere, but especially when flying into corners.
TRAIL BRAKING
Trail Brake For Faster, Safer Cornering
Whoa, whoa, whoa? You mean you brake in a corner? Yep, and it’ll make you both faster and safer. Here’s how and why.
Applying a motorcycle’s front brake will slow you down. Of course. And, in doing so, it’ll compress the front suspension and shift the weight onto the front tire, expanding its contact patch and increasing its grip. That has the dual effect of making the bike steer quicker and making it so you can push the front end harder. Together, that adds miles per hour.
You should really learn how to do this in the safe environment of a race track, where there are no cars around, where vision is good and where falling down won’t necessarily kill you.
Just brake a little later into a corner so you’ll still be on the brakes a little as you begin to turn. Feel good? Brake a little later the next time and a little later after that. Eventually, after much practice, you’ll get to the point where you’re hitting the apex at pace, just as you let go of the last little bit of front brake and begin to apply a little throttle. That’s right, no coasting, you swap brake for throttle at the apex.
Later braking means more time spent accelerating on the straights means faster lap times.
It also helps with safety. Because the front suspension will already be compressed, the front tire’s contact patch already maximized, you’ll be able to use that brake lever to tighten or widen your line, without upsetting the bike. That pays huge dividends on the road, where you often come around a blind corner to spot a patch of gravel or similar. Trail braking will help you avoid that obstacle in a safe, fluid, smooth manner.
Be aware of the grip a tire has available. Leaning and braking both require grip from the same, finite source. The more you lean, the less you can brake and vice versa. As you near max lean, you near max grip. As you near max brake, you also near max grip. Cross the two and you’ll be laying on the ground, watching your bike cartwheel through a gravel trap.
Whoa, whoa, whoa? You mean you brake in a corner? Yep, and it’ll make you both faster and safer. Here’s how and why.
Applying a motorcycle’s front brake will slow you down. Of course. And, in doing so, it’ll compress the front suspension and shift the weight onto the front tire, expanding its contact patch and increasing its grip. That has the dual effect of making the bike steer quicker and making it so you can push the front end harder. Together, that adds miles per hour.
You should really learn how to do this in the safe environment of a race track, where there are no cars around, where vision is good and where falling down won’t necessarily kill you.
Just brake a little later into a corner so you’ll still be on the brakes a little as you begin to turn. Feel good? Brake a little later the next time and a little later after that. Eventually, after much practice, you’ll get to the point where you’re hitting the apex at pace, just as you let go of the last little bit of front brake and begin to apply a little throttle. That’s right, no coasting, you swap brake for throttle at the apex.
Later braking means more time spent accelerating on the straights means faster lap times.
It also helps with safety. Because the front suspension will already be compressed, the front tire’s contact patch already maximized, you’ll be able to use that brake lever to tighten or widen your line, without upsetting the bike. That pays huge dividends on the road, where you often come around a blind corner to spot a patch of gravel or similar. Trail braking will help you avoid that obstacle in a safe, fluid, smooth manner.
Be aware of the grip a tire has available. Leaning and braking both require grip from the same, finite source. The more you lean, the less you can brake and vice versa. As you near max lean, you near max grip. As you near max brake, you also near max grip. Cross the two and you’ll be laying on the ground, watching your bike cartwheel through a gravel trap.
BRAKING ADVICES
Brake! Right.
The front brake is the most powerful component on your motorcycle. It’s capable of altering your bike’s velocity far quicker than then engine. It’s a far sharper tool than that found in even the most expensive performance cars and, as such, is also more difficult to use. Name one Porsche or Ferrari that can loop itself over its front wheels with an accidental brush of the brake pedal.
The sheer power of the front brake on performance motorcycles is one of the main reasons we advise new riders to begin on something small and light; mastering a motorcycle’s brakes takes years of experience.
Here’s a shortcut:
• Use two fingers only; your index and middle finger. Keep the others wrapped around the throttle.
• Anytime you may need to brake in a hurry, such as riding through traffic, rest those two fingers on the lever, ready to go. This is called “covering” the brake. Doing so will help you actuate it smoothly and respond more quickly.
• Load the front tire to increase grip. To give yourself the maximum possible braking ability, you need to maximize the front tire’s grip. Anytime you start braking, even in a panic situation, start by gently pulling in the lever, compressing the front suspension and pushing the front tire into the ground. Only once that tire’s had a chance to compress and spread out, increasing its contact patch and accepting the bike’s weight, can you begin to apply full braking force
• Progressively squeeze harder and harder, until you’ve achieved the desired level of deceleration. Once the rear wheel starts coming off the ground, or you feel the front tire beginning to lose traction, you’ve reached the maximum possible amount of braking for those conditions. Hold lever pressure steady or back off slightly to a level you’re comfortable with.
Above all, be smooth and progressive with your inputs. Grabbing a fist full of brake will just make you crash.
Rear brake? It’s great for low-speed control, but on non-chopper-style motorcycles, contributes little to outright braking power; under heavy deceleration, the rear tire becomes unweighted. (Some of us disagree with that on this one. Your rear brake is useful and should be used in conjunction with your front.)
WARNING
Do not blip the throttle during a panic or emergency stop. Use all four fingers to pull the front brake as you were taught by your trainer.
The front brake is the most powerful component on your motorcycle. It’s capable of altering your bike’s velocity far quicker than then engine. It’s a far sharper tool than that found in even the most expensive performance cars and, as such, is also more difficult to use. Name one Porsche or Ferrari that can loop itself over its front wheels with an accidental brush of the brake pedal.
The sheer power of the front brake on performance motorcycles is one of the main reasons we advise new riders to begin on something small and light; mastering a motorcycle’s brakes takes years of experience.
Here’s a shortcut:
• Use two fingers only; your index and middle finger. Keep the others wrapped around the throttle.
• Anytime you may need to brake in a hurry, such as riding through traffic, rest those two fingers on the lever, ready to go. This is called “covering” the brake. Doing so will help you actuate it smoothly and respond more quickly.
• Load the front tire to increase grip. To give yourself the maximum possible braking ability, you need to maximize the front tire’s grip. Anytime you start braking, even in a panic situation, start by gently pulling in the lever, compressing the front suspension and pushing the front tire into the ground. Only once that tire’s had a chance to compress and spread out, increasing its contact patch and accepting the bike’s weight, can you begin to apply full braking force
• Progressively squeeze harder and harder, until you’ve achieved the desired level of deceleration. Once the rear wheel starts coming off the ground, or you feel the front tire beginning to lose traction, you’ve reached the maximum possible amount of braking for those conditions. Hold lever pressure steady or back off slightly to a level you’re comfortable with.
Above all, be smooth and progressive with your inputs. Grabbing a fist full of brake will just make you crash.
Rear brake? It’s great for low-speed control, but on non-chopper-style motorcycles, contributes little to outright braking power; under heavy deceleration, the rear tire becomes unweighted. (Some of us disagree with that on this one. Your rear brake is useful and should be used in conjunction with your front.)
WARNING
Do not blip the throttle during a panic or emergency stop. Use all four fingers to pull the front brake as you were taught by your trainer.
6 Şubat 2019 Çarşamba
29 Ağustos 2017 Salı
RIDE YOUR OWN
Don’t go with the flow while riding a motorcycle...
As tempting it may be after the first miles on your bike, don’t try anything funky. Not now, not after the next 100 miles; you’re a greenhorn, no matter how skilled you may sometimes feel you are. Some of the nastiest accidents occur because this simple cause: new riders trying to do things which are way out of their reach. Add in speeding and you can almost hear your family sobbing. So just don’t try anything!
It’s always a great idea to ride with just one or two friends or maybe your instructor (you can also have a beer once the bikes are safe in the garage), a motorcyclist in your family or anything like that. Someone you get along with, with decent riding experience.
Why just one or two? Because you don’t know how to ride in a group; in fact you’re barely riding, so you need space for hesitant, wider turns, longer stops to slowly build your confidence, and you also need to feel free from excessive criticism, being able to focus on riding and not on how others see you.
And if the guy or guys you’re riding with are just pressing you to throttle up, then you should ride with other guys. That is, if you don’t do 15 mph where any other beginner could or should do more. If you feel this is not for you, it’s back to some training, maybe.
Speed is indeed enthralling and seeing others ride fast may seem easy. It’s no rocket science, but you should not heed those asking you to do 80 mph just to catch up with them. In fact, a good guy to ride with in the first miles is one who does not ask of you to do anything you feel like not doing.
If you’re slow in the turns, he or she would better see if you’re ok, if you’re afraid, if there are questions already popping in your head. If he or she goes the “speed up, you chicken!” way, then you’d be better off alone.
There is no forced, fast-forward learning: you hook up with that guy to build up confidence, see the way the other rider turns, leans, brakes, passes and so on. Or vice versa, to have that experienced rider driving behind you to see how you do all these things and come up with a friendly knock on your helmet or necessary corrections, as needed.
Keyword: Confidence. During your first hundreds of miles you’re to see how things really are in daily traffic. You have to get the basic info on what riding in traffic really is all about. You don’t have to prove anything to nobody, and you don’t have to impress anyone. Riding to the extent of your (altogether increasing) skills is the way to go.
Tip: Carefully choose the ones you start riding with, as they will have a major imprint on your initial riding style.
As tempting it may be after the first miles on your bike, don’t try anything funky. Not now, not after the next 100 miles; you’re a greenhorn, no matter how skilled you may sometimes feel you are. Some of the nastiest accidents occur because this simple cause: new riders trying to do things which are way out of their reach. Add in speeding and you can almost hear your family sobbing. So just don’t try anything!
It’s always a great idea to ride with just one or two friends or maybe your instructor (you can also have a beer once the bikes are safe in the garage), a motorcyclist in your family or anything like that. Someone you get along with, with decent riding experience.
Why just one or two? Because you don’t know how to ride in a group; in fact you’re barely riding, so you need space for hesitant, wider turns, longer stops to slowly build your confidence, and you also need to feel free from excessive criticism, being able to focus on riding and not on how others see you.
And if the guy or guys you’re riding with are just pressing you to throttle up, then you should ride with other guys. That is, if you don’t do 15 mph where any other beginner could or should do more. If you feel this is not for you, it’s back to some training, maybe.
Speed is indeed enthralling and seeing others ride fast may seem easy. It’s no rocket science, but you should not heed those asking you to do 80 mph just to catch up with them. In fact, a good guy to ride with in the first miles is one who does not ask of you to do anything you feel like not doing.
If you’re slow in the turns, he or she would better see if you’re ok, if you’re afraid, if there are questions already popping in your head. If he or she goes the “speed up, you chicken!” way, then you’d be better off alone.
There is no forced, fast-forward learning: you hook up with that guy to build up confidence, see the way the other rider turns, leans, brakes, passes and so on. Or vice versa, to have that experienced rider driving behind you to see how you do all these things and come up with a friendly knock on your helmet or necessary corrections, as needed.
Keyword: Confidence. During your first hundreds of miles you’re to see how things really are in daily traffic. You have to get the basic info on what riding in traffic really is all about. You don’t have to prove anything to nobody, and you don’t have to impress anyone. Riding to the extent of your (altogether increasing) skills is the way to go.
Tip: Carefully choose the ones you start riding with, as they will have a major imprint on your initial riding style.
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25 Temmuz 2017 Salı
MOTOSİKLETTE AYNA AYARI
Motorunuzdaki ayna tipi ve büyüklüğü sizin arkanızda göremediğiniz kör alanların büyüklüğünü belirler.
Yaşam kurtaran bakış dediğimiz ve her sollama öncesi, hat değişimi öncesi, frenleme öncesi ve kavşaklara yaklaşırken yapılan omuz üzerinden kısa bir geriye bakış atma davranışına ek olarak da arkanızın tüm sürüş boyunca her 8-10 saniyede bir aynalarınızdan kontrol edilmesi şarttır. Bu sebeple ayna ayarlarınızı arkanızdaki göremediğiniz alanları en küçüğe indirecek şekilde ayarlamanız gerekir.
Arkanızın sürekli aynalarınız vasıtasıyla kontrol altında tutulması motosiklet sürücüleri için vazgeçilmez bir zarurettir. Şayet sizi ürkütecek şekilde bir araç arkanıza yaklaşıp sizi sollamışsa ve siz ancak bu geçiş olurken bunun farkında olarak ürkmüşseniz siz arkanızı kontrol altında tutmuyorsunuz demektir.
Aynaların ayarlanması tekniği:
Aynada dikkat edilmesi gereken ilk nokta siz hareket edip yer değiştirdikçe arkanızın görünümündeki değişiklikleri gösteren doğru uzaklık açısının elde edilebilmesidir. Aynalardaki görüntülerin uzantılarının bir yerde birbirleri ile kesişmesi demektir. Yani birinin göremediğini diğeri gösterebilmelidir. Aynalar size, yeterince uzağı gösterebilecek şekilde yüksek ayarlanmalıdır. Hemen arkanızdaki yol yüzeyini görmeniz gerekmez. Bir vasıtanın lastiklerini görmek önemli değildir. Çünkü arabalar yeterince yüksektir dolayısıyla aynaların hemen arkanızdaki yerin 20 cm üstünde olacak şekilde ayarlanması gereksizdir. Arkanızda olabildiğince uzağı görebilecek şekilde ayarlarken dikkat edeceğiniz şey kör alanları küçültülerek arkanızdaki bir aracın bu alana girdiğinde bir ucunun, önü yada arkasının, aynalarınızın görüşü içinde kalmasıdır. Yani bu alan içine bir arabanın yada motosikletin tamamen görünmez kalacak şekilde sığmasını engellemek gerekir.
Ayar için motorunuzda dik pozisyonda oturun ve önünüzden bir arkadaşınız sizin peri ferik görüş alanınızdan çıkıncaya kadar geriye doğru yürüsün. Bu arada siz sürekli ileriye bakıyorsunuz, başınızı ve bakışlarınızı kıpırdatmıyorsunuz. Kişinin sizin peri ferik görüş alanınızdan çıktığı noktaya bir kuka(işaret) koyun. Şimdi aynı şahsın tam arkanızdan işaretlediğiniz bu noktaya doğru yürümesini isteyiniz. Kişi işaretli noktaya doğru yürürken bu seferde aynalardan kaybolduğu yeri işaretleyiniz. İşte işaretlediğiniz bu iki nokta arasındaki alan sizin kör alanınızdır. Bu iki nokta arasına giren bir aracın bir tarafı aynalarınız tarafından tespit edilecek tarzda ayarlarının yapılmış olması lazımdır. Ayarlayamıyorsanız o zaman aynalarınız yeterince büyük değildir. Daha büyük ayna kullanınız.
Alpaslan Kuzucan
Yaşam kurtaran bakış dediğimiz ve her sollama öncesi, hat değişimi öncesi, frenleme öncesi ve kavşaklara yaklaşırken yapılan omuz üzerinden kısa bir geriye bakış atma davranışına ek olarak da arkanızın tüm sürüş boyunca her 8-10 saniyede bir aynalarınızdan kontrol edilmesi şarttır. Bu sebeple ayna ayarlarınızı arkanızdaki göremediğiniz alanları en küçüğe indirecek şekilde ayarlamanız gerekir.
Arkanızın sürekli aynalarınız vasıtasıyla kontrol altında tutulması motosiklet sürücüleri için vazgeçilmez bir zarurettir. Şayet sizi ürkütecek şekilde bir araç arkanıza yaklaşıp sizi sollamışsa ve siz ancak bu geçiş olurken bunun farkında olarak ürkmüşseniz siz arkanızı kontrol altında tutmuyorsunuz demektir.
Aynaların ayarlanması tekniği:
Aynada dikkat edilmesi gereken ilk nokta siz hareket edip yer değiştirdikçe arkanızın görünümündeki değişiklikleri gösteren doğru uzaklık açısının elde edilebilmesidir. Aynalardaki görüntülerin uzantılarının bir yerde birbirleri ile kesişmesi demektir. Yani birinin göremediğini diğeri gösterebilmelidir. Aynalar size, yeterince uzağı gösterebilecek şekilde yüksek ayarlanmalıdır. Hemen arkanızdaki yol yüzeyini görmeniz gerekmez. Bir vasıtanın lastiklerini görmek önemli değildir. Çünkü arabalar yeterince yüksektir dolayısıyla aynaların hemen arkanızdaki yerin 20 cm üstünde olacak şekilde ayarlanması gereksizdir. Arkanızda olabildiğince uzağı görebilecek şekilde ayarlarken dikkat edeceğiniz şey kör alanları küçültülerek arkanızdaki bir aracın bu alana girdiğinde bir ucunun, önü yada arkasının, aynalarınızın görüşü içinde kalmasıdır. Yani bu alan içine bir arabanın yada motosikletin tamamen görünmez kalacak şekilde sığmasını engellemek gerekir.
Ayar için motorunuzda dik pozisyonda oturun ve önünüzden bir arkadaşınız sizin peri ferik görüş alanınızdan çıkıncaya kadar geriye doğru yürüsün. Bu arada siz sürekli ileriye bakıyorsunuz, başınızı ve bakışlarınızı kıpırdatmıyorsunuz. Kişinin sizin peri ferik görüş alanınızdan çıktığı noktaya bir kuka(işaret) koyun. Şimdi aynı şahsın tam arkanızdan işaretlediğiniz bu noktaya doğru yürümesini isteyiniz. Kişi işaretli noktaya doğru yürürken bu seferde aynalardan kaybolduğu yeri işaretleyiniz. İşte işaretlediğiniz bu iki nokta arasındaki alan sizin kör alanınızdır. Bu iki nokta arasına giren bir aracın bir tarafı aynalarınız tarafından tespit edilecek tarzda ayarlarının yapılmış olması lazımdır. Ayarlayamıyorsanız o zaman aynalarınız yeterince büyük değildir. Daha büyük ayna kullanınız.
Alpaslan Kuzucan
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