RIDE YOUR OWN

Don’t go with the flow while riding a motorcycle...

As tempting it may be after the first miles on your bike, don’t try anything funky. Not now, not after the next 100 miles; you’re a greenhorn, no matter how skilled you may sometimes feel you are. Some of the nastiest accidents occur because this simple cause: new riders trying to do things which are way out of their reach. Add in speeding and you can almost hear your family sobbing. So just don’t try anything!

It’s always a great idea to ride with just one or two friends or maybe your instructor (you can also have a beer once the bikes are safe in the garage), a motorcyclist in your family or anything like that. Someone you get along with, with decent riding experience.

Why just one or two? Because you don’t know how to ride in a group; in fact you’re barely riding, so you need space for hesitant, wider turns, longer stops to slowly build your confidence, and you also need to feel free from excessive criticism, being able to focus on riding and not on how others see you.

And if the guy or guys you’re riding with are just pressing you to throttle up, then you should ride with other guys. That is, if you don’t do 15 mph where any other beginner could or should do more. If you feel this is not for you, it’s back to some training, maybe.

Speed is indeed enthralling and seeing others ride fast may seem easy. It’s no rocket science, but you should not heed those asking you to do 80 mph just to catch up with them. In fact, a good guy to ride with in the first miles is one who does not ask of you to do anything you feel like not doing.

If you’re slow in the turns, he or she would better see if you’re ok, if you’re afraid, if there are questions already popping in your head. If he or she goes the “speed up, you chicken!” way, then you’d be better off alone.

There is no forced, fast-forward learning: you hook up with that guy to build up confidence, see the way the other rider turns, leans, brakes, passes and so on. Or vice versa, to have that experienced rider driving behind you to see how you do all these things and come up with a friendly knock on your helmet or necessary corrections, as needed.

Keyword: Confidence. During your first hundreds of miles you’re to see how things really are in daily traffic. You have to get the basic info on what riding in traffic really is all about. You don’t have to prove anything to nobody, and you don’t have to impress anyone. Riding to the extent of your (altogether increasing) skills is the way to go.

Tip: Carefully choose the ones you start riding with, as they will have a major imprint on your initial riding style.

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MOTOSİKLETTE AYNA AYARI

Motorunuzdaki ayna tipi ve büyüklüğü sizin arkanızda göremediğiniz kör alanların büyüklüğünü belirler.

Yaşam kurtaran bakış dediğimiz ve her sollama öncesi, hat değişimi öncesi, frenleme öncesi ve kavşaklara yaklaşırken yapılan omuz üzerinden kısa bir geriye bakış atma davranışına ek olarak da arkanızın tüm sürüş boyunca her 8-10 saniyede bir aynalarınızdan kontrol edilmesi şarttır. Bu sebeple ayna ayarlarınızı arkanızdaki göremediğiniz alanları en küçüğe indirecek şekilde ayarlamanız gerekir.

Arkanızın sürekli aynalarınız vasıtasıyla kontrol altında tutulması motosiklet sürücüleri için vazgeçilmez bir zarurettir. Şayet sizi ürkütecek şekilde bir araç arkanıza yaklaşıp sizi sollamışsa ve siz ancak bu geçiş olurken bunun farkında olarak ürkmüşseniz siz arkanızı kontrol altında tutmuyorsunuz demektir.

Aynaların ayarlanması tekniği:

Aynada dikkat edilmesi gereken ilk nokta siz hareket edip yer değiştirdikçe arkanızın görünümündeki değişiklikleri gösteren doğru uzaklık açısının elde edilebilmesidir. Aynalardaki görüntülerin uzantılarının bir yerde birbirleri ile kesişmesi demektir. Yani birinin göremediğini diğeri gösterebilmelidir. Aynalar size, yeterince uzağı gösterebilecek şekilde yüksek ayarlanmalıdır. Hemen arkanızdaki yol yüzeyini görmeniz gerekmez. Bir vasıtanın lastiklerini görmek önemli değildir. Çünkü arabalar yeterince yüksektir dolayısıyla aynaların hemen arkanızdaki yerin 20 cm üstünde olacak şekilde ayarlanması gereksizdir. Arkanızda olabildiğince uzağı görebilecek şekilde ayarlarken dikkat edeceğiniz şey kör alanları küçültülerek arkanızdaki bir aracın bu alana girdiğinde bir ucunun, önü yada arkasının, aynalarınızın görüşü içinde kalmasıdır. Yani bu alan içine bir arabanın yada motosikletin tamamen görünmez kalacak şekilde sığmasını engellemek gerekir.

Ayar için motorunuzda dik pozisyonda oturun ve önünüzden bir arkadaşınız sizin peri ferik görüş alanınızdan çıkıncaya kadar geriye doğru yürüsün. Bu arada siz sürekli ileriye bakıyorsunuz, başınızı ve bakışlarınızı kıpırdatmıyorsunuz. Kişinin sizin peri ferik görüş alanınızdan çıktığı noktaya bir kuka(işaret) koyun. Şimdi aynı şahsın tam arkanızdan işaretlediğiniz bu noktaya doğru yürümesini isteyiniz. Kişi işaretli noktaya doğru yürürken bu seferde aynalardan kaybolduğu yeri işaretleyiniz. İşte işaretlediğiniz bu iki nokta arasındaki alan sizin kör alanınızdır. Bu iki nokta arasına giren bir aracın bir tarafı aynalarınız tarafından tespit edilecek tarzda ayarlarının yapılmış olması lazımdır. Ayarlayamıyorsanız o zaman aynalarınız yeterince büyük değildir. Daha büyük ayna kullanınız.

Alpaslan Kuzucan 

BRAKING II

It's better not to have to brake in a corner...

It's fairly common to enter a turn with a speed greater than the most appropriate one needed for safely making it around the corner. Such situations are to be avoided as much as possible, unless you're racing pilot on the track or an experienced supermoto rider. 

Most motorcycle accidents happen because of the human error factor, with rather little concern about whose fault it is. While accidents – and in this case we're referring to vehicles colliding – involve at least one of the machine operators' error, a lot of crashes – most with fairly mild consequences as far as damage is concerned – occur because of riders' errors.

Despite some of you frowning, it's a reality almost impossible to deny: failing to ride at appropriate speed causes a lot of crashes. It doesn't have to be 130 mph (roughly 210 kph); a bike rider can easily meet many nasty situations at much lower speeds, and sometimes, those few mphs above what was needed can make the difference between a good ride and a bad one.

In corners, crashes can also happen because the bike lacks enough speed to remain on track, and the rider lowsides; nevertheless, lowside vs. highside is another matter and we'll be discussing it in a dedicated column further on. 

The biggest problem though, is entering a turn way too fast. The risks are quite obvious: one would either understeer and exit the road (or in a lucky situation – a very wide exit), or try to reduce speed so that the bike remains on the asphalt. 

As braking too hard with the front wheel is both a serious hazard and a very likely scenario when a newbie realizes that he/ she has misjudged a corner, you probably figure out how important is that the braking should be finished before entering the turn.

When the speed exceeds “what was needed” by just a small fraction, there are many chances that even an inexperienced rider could pull it through safely. There is the choice of braking softly and rearranging himself or herself on the bike accordingly to compensate for the sudden change, or leaning low and try to balance between the centrifugal force (pulling the bike to the exterior of the turn) and the centripetal force, keeping the vehicle on the track. Old and experienced pilots would seldom advise that leaning more and pulling the throttle is sometimes the best (and even the only) way to make it through a nasty situation. 

However, corners are best to be entered at proper speed, keeping in mind that throttle equals grip. In more words, you should approach the corner either at the ideal speed (which depends on road type and condition, type of bike, rider experience, tires, and so on) or with a slight engine brake, just enough to grant you both torque and control over the bike.

There is a nasty type of corner with variable angles along its course; if the corner opens, there's no problem, just hit the gas and fly on, but if the corner tightens, some might find themselves in a bit of a trouble, and braking is utterly necessary. 

Like with any kind of braking, it's the front wheel providing most stopping power and it's the front brakes one must use firmly, yet with gentle caution. If the road is in good condition and you meet no puddles, sand or gravel, you could use a bit of rear brake, as well. 
This operation commends special awareness, as you must keep in mind that when braking with the front, the rear wheel tends to lose grip (weight-shifting, right?) and skid. And if your lose the rear wheel, a highside is just a “how bad” matter and not an “if” one.

Brake hard, stay cool and make it through

It's true that most bike riders like to travel at speeds which often exceed the limitations for certain portions of the roads they're treading. While a little above the speed limit means no harm and will only get you a ticket, riding fast on populated roads poses a major risk. “It's not speed that kills” some might say, and I have to agree with them; it's not the speed but it's the sudden stop that kills, unfortunately.

Hard braking or emergency braking, as we've often named it, is in most cases the only thing a motorcycle pilot can do to save his/ her life, possibly the life of a pillion passenger and avoid damage to the bike. 

When done correctly and presuming we're not talking about “low fliers”, hard braking will indeed allow for an evasive maneuver or a complete halt; or at least make you crash at a much lower speed and with high chances to make it home on your own, no broken limbs and all.

One of the key elements of a successful emergency brake is not losing your mind and remaining focused; excessive focus can turn into point fixation, but we'll deal with that in another article. 

Keeping cool despite your accelerated pulse and adrenaline rush in your blood lets you think more clearly and renders you more capable to properly assess the situation, decide for the action to be taken and getting the job done. If you panic, bad stuff will most likely occur; if you're the kind of person who is easily scared, who panics quite often, you shouldn't be riding on two wheels or at least you should practice a lot.

Hard braking is needed in the direst of situations and fast thinking/ action are paramount; there's simply no time for second thoughts, and that's why emergency braking is one maneuver which is never exercised enough.

Emergency braking relies almost entirely on the stopping power of the front wheel; in fact, the rear brakes should be used most sparingly if at all. It's very important to squeeze the brake lever firmly, but not in a violent manner lest you either lock and lose the front wheel or do an involuntary stoppie which might end terribly bad.

At the same time, knowing the moment when your front wheel locks helps a lot in such situations; this info will tell you how much more you can brake before you lose grip. Different bikes come with different “locking” characters, so if you're riding a new bike, getting to know it a bit is always a good idea.

The rear brake is better left alone unless you're an experienced rider: because of the adrenaline and mental tension occurring during an emergency, it's very likely that the inexperienced rider should press the rear brake lever excessively hard and lock the rear wheel... and that's NOT what's intended, by far.

You should also remember that the looser the surface, the easier your wheels will lock. Think about a road covered in gravel and sand - due to its loose texture, the surface has less contact with the tires and, in consequence, it opposes a lot less to the stopping force of the calipers pressing the brake rotors. With little to no opposing force, the wheels are much easier to stop and lock. Riding surface awareness is also commendable.

In case you feel the wheels very close to locking, letting go of the brake levers completely is not advisable. Au contraire, you should simply ease a bit the tension in the brakes so you move away from the moment your wheels lock, while at the same time paying attention to what's happening around you.

One of AMSF's (American Motorcycle Safety Foundation) teachings explains why riders should concentrate on the front brake: most riders aren't able to use BOTH brakes as efficiently as needed in an emergency situation. Trying to have both brakes used at full power usually ends in not using either properly. And since not losing the front wheel is the master plan, while a bit of skidding with the rear one does little harm, it's only natural to focus on the first.

Since emergencies are situations that occur out of the blue in most occasions, braking efficiently is an action that relies on instinct rather than on thinking; that's why constantly practicing hard brakes with your bike is such a worthy training. Getting your body to react fast and properly as soon as a dangerous situation is detected is essential if you want to make it home safe.

Unlike balance, braking is not a “natural skill” and a rider learns and perfects it and may hope of mastering it until it becomes more like an instinct. Practicing braking in all its extreme shapes is a very good method to keep instincts and learned behaviors sharp; some statistics show that almost a third of all riders don't even hit the brakes!

As the season starts, it's always good to spend some time with your bike before riding like you did last summer; muscles need a bit of “memory refreshment”, instincts properly awaken. Practicing some hard braking and evasive maneuvers on empty roads or parking lots can make a big difference; and as always, protective gear is most warmly recommended. Ride well, fellows!

By Floran Tubi

BRAKING

We should admit that motorcycles have always been associated with high speeds, no matter if we're thinking about merely passing the legal limits or traveling at bullet-speed along a free highway. Most bikes come with tremendous acceleration capabilities and some even go way beyond the point of safety, as acknowledged by experienced riders.

While picking up speed is fairly easy when riding a motorcycle, braking in time to avoid crashes, pass various obstacles or enter a turn safely can be a matter of life and death. Being able to slow down or come to a complete stop in the most demanding situations or inclement weather is a very important skill bikers should develop and constantly exercise throughout their riding career.

In this first episode of the braking guide, we are going to shed some light on few terms and describe the basic principles of motorcycle braking. Further articles will go deeper in the matter, for better and clearer info.

Riding a motorbike means a lot of fun for most of the people who enjoy the two-wheeled sport, but this activity also comes with a lot of risks, due to its very "unstable" nature. The following article is intended to be a guide to help the new riders understand better the braking procedures when riding a motorcycle and increase their awareness in traffic.

We should admit that motorcycles have always been associated with high speeds, no matter if we're thinking about merely passing the legal limits or traveling at bullet-speed along a free highway. Most bikes come with tremendous acceleration capabilities and some even go way beyond the point of safety, as acknowledged by experienced riders.

While picking up speed is fairly easy when riding a motorcycle, braking in time to avoid crashes, pass various obstacles or enter a turn safely can be a matter of life and death. Being able to slow down or come to a complete stop in the most demanding situations or inclement weather is a very important skill bikers should develop and constantly exercise throughout their riding career.

In this first episode of the braking guide, we are going to shed some light on few terms and describe the basic principles of motorcycle braking. Further articles will go deeper in the matter, for better and clearer info.

The Grip

First of all, braking is directly related to grip. In simple words, the grip is the friction between your tires and the surface you're on. This friction is a part of the mechanism that allows you to go forward as you thrust the gas, keep your lane when cornering or stop when needed.

A bike's grip depends on a lot of other factors, such as the physical condition and type of tires you're using, the nature of the road's surface, the presence of debris or water. Old tires or tires improperly chosen for the road you plan to travel affect grip in a negative way, rendering the bike prone to skidding and increasing the braking distance.

Likewise, wet asphalt or a road covered in snow mean less grip and increased chances to skid. It is crucial that riders get a good idea of their bikes' grip and road contact; getting to know your bike also boosts the confidence and allows the pilot to drive a bit more relaxed.

Grip is essential when braking: the better the contact between the tires and the road, the stronger the braking force will be, shortening the stopping distance. With grip also being influenced by the vehicle's weight, one should never forget that heavier bikes also have more inertia and need longer braking distances and stronger braking force.

Lightweight bikes, on the other hand, tend to lose contact with the road easier and thus can skid much quicker than the heavy motorcycles. Keeping this in mind will also help you decide upon your riding style when switching bikes.

Due to the very constructive nature of a motorcycle, the weight shifts to the rear or to the front as you accelerate or brake. Since grip is drastically influenced by the weight, your bike's stability and road contact will vary accordingly; while revving the gas, the weight is pushed towards the rear, pressing the tire harder against the road and ensuring better grip provided you're not exaggerating with the throttle.

Easing your hand on the throttle creates engine braking, as the bike tends to slow down, re-establishing the weight distribution; and if you hit the front brakes just a bit, you'll instantly feel the weight of the bike (and your own) being pushed to the front, causing what riders call “a dive”. Now much of the weight pushes hard on the front tire, maximizing the grip and helping you slow down as you squeeze the brake lever. Yet, never forget that in these moments the rear wheel is lighter and can slip easy enough; we'll cover this issue later on.

If you look at any motorcycle and see the very small contact surface between the tire and the road - even more, just think about an even smaller one as the bike is moving - this surface is all you can use to slow down or come to a halt and using it wisely can make the difference between returning home safely or bruised. Or not returning at all.

As braking is not a “natural skill” like countersteering is, it needs both practice and observation. Keeping an eye on what's below your wheels can give you a lot of information about how you should ride to make it to your destination in one piece; failing to watch out for the changes in the road condition can put you in dangerous situations where you can suddenly lose grip and maybe spill.

Not noticing the gravel or sand in a turn and entering that corner leaning too much and with too much speed is one proven recipe for having one wheel or even both losing grip and sending bike and rider(s) skidding out of control.

Chapter punchline: remember that grip is the key element that makes you go faster and it is crucial to slow you down and bring your bike to a stop safely.

The Brakes Themselves

Bikes come with front and rear brakes and they're meant to be used simultaneously for the best results. The weight shifting described above is one of the most important reasons to use both brakes; braking correctly compensates for the different bike balance induced by the dynamic changes and helps keeping both wheels down.

The basics of the weight-shifting are quite simple: accelerate and the weight moves to the rear wheel, brake and the weight moves towards the front tire. What's even more important is the complementary effect: as the weight goes to the rear wheel, the front one tends to lift and lose grip; in case you throttle hard, you can completely raise the front wheel off the road and “pop a wheelie”.

When braking hard, it's the rear wheel that tends to lose grip and could send the bike in a side-skid if no countermeasures are taken. In order to minimize the grip loss and rear wheel lift effect, you must press the foot brake; doing so compensates the weight shifting and balances the bike.

The harder you brake with the front wheel, the more cautiously the rear brake should be used, just to help you balance the bike; not blocking both wheels when driving a bike with no ABS installed is a matter of practice and riding expertise and there's no “recipe” to work in all conditions.

Most experienced riders agree that braking should begin with gently pressing the rear wheel lever followed very shortly by the main stopping force of the front. When it comes to braking and stopping, the front brakes provide between 60 and 80 percent of the needed force. In case this kind of math seems weird, let's analyze the very facts.

1. You brake, the weight shifts to the front and pushes the tire into the road. Result: better grip.

2. The front wheel has two brake discs. Result: double the force opposing the bike's inertia.

3. The front brake discs are usually larger in diameter than the rear ones. Result: more stopping force.

Even with these three reasons (out of many more possible), the crucial importance of front wheel braking should be now perfectly highlighted.

Little does it matter if we think about braking at high speed or a slower one: the process is the same, as the very laws of the physics do not change. When riding very fast and looking just to slow down to a more “reasonable” speed, you could just use the front brake with caution. But in case you need to stop your motorcycle in the shortest distance possible, initiating braking with the rear wheel is mandatory.

Why is it so? The very dynamics of the bike have a very simple explanation: braking with the rear wheel already adds some weight to the front and you can squeeze the front brake lever a bit harder with less dive, allowing you to slow down faster.

Modern-era motorcycles come with AI-assisted braking that engages both brake pumps simultaneously. It's the LBS (Linked Braking System) or the CBS (Combined Braking System) to which we'll dedicate a whole chapter later on. In few words, the CBS bike will also brake (with a specific force) with the rear wheel when squeezing the front lever, and vice-versa. The electronic aid makes the slowing/ stopping safer and faster and compensates for the human error factor.

Chapter punchline: newbie riders should always keep in mind that correct braking involves using both the front and the rear wheels, rear brake first. Learning to “feel” their bike's brakes and weight-shifting effect helps a lot.

Rubber Side Down

When braking, being in contact with the road is essential, as there is no part of a bike being able to grip the riding surface better than rubber does. Keeping the bike with the “rubber side downwards” will help you brake efficiently when needed and make it safely at home. Of course, if we're thinking about offroad riding or driving over other kinds of unstable surfaces means something completely different, but we'll see about this later on.

Springs and shock absorbers are a key element when it comes to maintaining contact between tires and the road and having them improperly set up or in bad condition/ damaged poses a major threat to the safety of the bike and the rider.

Bikes designed to be used on surfaces other than track or asphalt come with slightly softer springs; due to the very nature of the terrain, the fork needs a lot of travel in order to maintain the rest of the bike level and in contact with the ground. In case a larger obstacle is being confronted, the more “permissive” springs will allow the wheel to easily climb the rock or mound by retreating the tubes into the fork. Should the same scenario be repeated with stronger springs, the entire bike is most likely to jump over the obstacle with a more brutal movement that can damage the frame, forks, or even worse, cause the driver to lose control and crash.

Sport bikes come with stronger, more rigid suspension, minimizing the dive effect when braking and thus maintaining better contact between both wheels and road. While stronger suspension favors braking and a more balanced feel of the bike even during powerful braking, it can become really dangerous when passing over uneven portions because it can cause stamping.

Stamping refers to the small “jumps” of a wheel caused by passing over small obstacles such as pebbles, level differences between concrete slabs or rippled asphalt. Losing contact between the tires and the road during braking can lead to serious trouble, especially when adding in the panic factor and point fixation. Choosing to ride a specific bike on the surface its designers intended not only maximizes the fun, but it only grants a safer ride.

New Tires Slip

While the condition of the springs and other suspension elements is a bit harder to check on the spot (save for some dive-testing that can be done at low speed), the condition of the tires can be directly verified. It's common sense that new tires help you brake better than old ones, but this also comes with a trick – one that can make the difference between hospital and making it safely for home.

When brand new, the surface of a motorcycle tire is covered with a special agent that helps preserve the rubber. Even worse, you'll find other chemical residues left on the surface of the tire after the molding process. These release agents and surface conditioners (which help the tire look almost waxy when new) are your worst enemies after installing new rubbers on your bike.

The first 70 miles or more (100 km) are to be driven very carefully, until the surface of the tires reaches the optimal shape and the agents/ residue is scrubbed off. Extra care is not only mandatory when turning – a lot of guys crashed after their rear wheels slid out and caused them to lose control in a straight line and at low speed.

Even worse, as the surface of the tire is scuffed differently on various portions, you might find yourselves in a nastier scenario in which the wheel spins off for a split second and then regains traction, bucking you into a highside with the most unpleasant resolve. Riding with brand new tires in the rain is somewhat like really asking for it!

The coating of new tires is easily removed in several ways. You can either ride carefully for the first 100 miles (160 km), avoiding aggressive driving and progressively increasing both speed and leaning angles or finding a free parking lot and doing a lot of figure-eights at low speed. As the rubber is being freed from the coating, you can do your turns faster and tilt your bike more.

If you're looking for a fast way to “scrub off” your new tires, you can do this in the very place you've had them installed. Place the wheel on a balancer or have your bike on the center stand (in case you have one) and give it a thorough spin. Then use the old tire to “lathe” a bit the surface of the new one until it's matte and you feel the porous rubber with your fingers. Always remember the safety precautions and use gloves and eye protection while attempting this operation.

You'll notice that a scuffed tire not only boasts increased traction, but it will also help you brake better and in shorter distances. The discussion whether the manufacturers should have the tires already scuffed (and thus more “road-ready” and with the best handling available for that type) is still open.


You Lock – You Knock

One of the most important things when it comes to braking is not locking the wheels. Locked wheels equal sliding and, when on the bike, it's you who should be in control of the direction and not random physics. A sliding wheel has little (to none) regard of the direction you're trying to steer it to, and this is bad, unless you're a supermoto pilot, and that's why keeping the wheels spinning is essential to slowing down safely and stopping in time.

Any wheeled vehicle behaves almost the same when its wheels lock due to excessive braking: it begins to slide out of control. Leaving aside the sport drifting, having your vehicle moving by its own is an almost sure way to end the day in the ER, and that's why excessive braking is to be dearly avoided.

Modern bikes come with ABS brakes that help the rider avoid locking the wheels and decrease the stopping distance or skidding. While the presence of the ABS increases the safety, this doesn't mean that those bikes are completely safe, though.

While emergency braking requires a firm lever action, the hand must be gentle enough so that the wheel slows down as much as possible without locking and without losing a firm contact with the road. Most bikes manufactured in the last 20 years or so come with very powerful front brakes, especially those with two front discs; a skilled rider could easily “stand a bike on its nose”. Mastering the power of the brakes is a skill constantly being exercised each time you get on a motorbike and the more you practice, the better the results.

Most experienced riders agree that one can still refine his or her braking skills even after many years spent in a motorcycle seat. The road and traffic can come up with an infinity of particular situations that demand different approaches and one could (or maybe should) never even dream he or she has finished learning how to brake in every situation imaginable.

It's wise to practice braking close to the boundaries of the bike you're riding as it helps you find out the point where your wheels start to lose grip and give in to breaking contact with the road. The closer to this point you can brake, the shorter the distance until you reach a full stop safely.

Practicing braking on roads with preferably no traffic at all or parking lot is a most welcome habit of every rider, especially the inexperienced ones. It helps them better know their bikes and renders them able to ride closer to their true potential.


By Florin Tubi.

STEERING

Roadracers face few emergency situations; they know what’s coming next and they use body position to help steer their bikes. Not so true with street riders, who need to understand and practice “countersteering,” the application of pressure on the inside bar to turn the bike. You need to get a feel for how sudden pressure “snaps” the bike, how mild pressure “veers” it, and how pushing on the inside bar or pulling on the outside bar accomplishes the same thing.

It’s not enough to understand this in theory: You must get out and see what different pressures do because you might need an aggressive push/pull to dodge the spare tire that suddenly appears from under the UPS truck.

Can you thread your bike between the Bott’s dots? Can you ride exactly on the white line for a mile? Can you just skim the Bott’s dots with the left edge of your tire? The right edge? Can you bring your bike to a stop mid-turn in a deserted parking lot? From what speeds?

Can you go from yellow line to white line, and back, in the middle of a sweeping corner? Remember the saying, “You go where you look.” It all starts with your eyes.

All these questions relate to this: Are you truly in control of your bike? When traffic stops and the pickup locks its brakes behind you, can you brake and steer your bike between the cars stopped ahead of you?

Countersteering with bar pressure is a much more subtle art than new riders would ever guess—just like everything else in this sport when done well.

How subtle? Do this: Get your bike out on a deserted road at highway speeds, take your right hand and put it in your lap, and reach across with your left hand to operate the throttle. Not only are you operating the throttle, but you’re steering too. See if you can change lanes and place the bike where you want. The pushing and pulling will really become clear.

Mastering stopping and steering is the emergency parachute you need if everything goes wrong. Remember, all other priorities take a back seat to awesome bike control. Go get some.

Cycleworld...

WEIGHT DISTRIBITION

It’s an accepted truth: Less weight on a motorcycle is equivalent to more horsepower. This reality is the reason for countless titanium parts on MotoGP bikes and championship-winning racers looking like they’ve skipped more meals than a Victoria’s Secret cover model. But does the “10 pounds equals 1 hp” ideology that race teams live and die by mean that you should be supplanting your Sunday-morning TV time with 50-plus-mile bike rides? The truth is that not all weight is a burden, and if used correctly, the extra pounds you carry could be the secret to quicker laps at the track, plus safer riding on the street.

Transitions and changes in direction are areas where weight plays a role in motorcycle riding. How many crash videos have you seen where a bike spits its rider off, only to stand itself upright and continue down the road? Motorcycles inherently want to go straight; it’s us as riders who throw them off axis, using heavily weighted steering inputs to help accomplish quick changes in direction. Footrests, despite the name, aren’t for you to simply rest your feet on. Thrust your body weight into your bike’s inside peg to help rotate the bike off its axis and get to maximum lean quicker, then weight the outside peg at the exit to help stand the bike up.

A rider’s weight should be centralized as best as possible, just as the bike’s components are. This means that, in a transition especially, you’ll want to keep your head and chest low to the tank as possible, rising very little as you flick the bike from left to right—or vice versa. It’s not so much about how much weight you have but where you place it.

Another opportunity to play with weight distribution is in a braking zone. Modern motorcycles have enough braking power to transfer all of the bike’s weight forward almost instantaneously, yet transferring all of that weight to the front of the bike can overwhelm the front end. Similarly, if you grab the front brake with enough force to lift the rear wheel off the ground, you’ve rendered the rear brake ineffective. For these reasons, get your weight toward the back of the bike by sliding toward the rear of the seat as you drop the anchor. In more aggressive braking situations, you can adjust your weight forward and backward to control a bike’s slide into the corner; the more weight you move to the rear, the larger the rear tire’s contact patch and more stable the bike will be.

Sportriding...

COVER YOUR BRAKES IN TRAFFIC

In traffic you must often react extra quickly, which means not fumbling for the brake lever or pedal. To minimize reach time, always keep a finger or two on the brake lever and your right toe close to the rear brake pedal. When that cell phone-yakking dorkus cuts across your path trying to get to the 7-Eleven for a burrito supreme, you'll be ready.

ÇEKİŞ KONTROL SİSTEMLERİ

Traction Control denen çekiş kontrol sistemlerinin dezantajları; genellikle bu sistem dönüşün apeks noktasında gazı iyice aç ve bırak, geri kalan işi elektronikler yapsındır. Sistem elbette arka teker spin atmasın diye gücü kesecektir. Gücün düştüğünü gören yada hisseden sürücü herşeyin yolunda gittiğini ve çekiş kontrol mekanizmasının işlevini yaptığını düşünecektir. Ancak sizin motorunuzdaki sistem bir moto-gp deki tam teşekkül bir sistem değildir. Ayrıca bu sistem sizin bireysel kullanma alışkanlıklarınıza göre ayarlanmış bir sistem hiç değildir. Bu şartlarda gazı çekip gerisini elektroniklere bırakmak iki sebebten doğru olmaz.

1. Gazı tam çekmeniz çekiş kontrol ünitesinin yavaşlamak için bir çok işlem yapmasını gerektirecektir ki buda sizin daha hızlı gitmenizi sağlayacak yerde tam tersi hızınızı azaltacaktır.

2. Gazı tam açarak gitmeniz bu sistemin tüm avantajlarından yararlanamamanıza sebeb olacaktır.

Bir kere az bir spin atma lastiğin yere tutunma yeteneğini artıracağı için olması gereken bir şeydir. Zaten bu sistemin asıl amacı boşa dönmeyi düzenlemesidir. Yani sürücüden daha iyi düzenlemesidir. Cadde motorlarına takılan bu sistemler bir çok sürücünün ortalamasına cevap verecek şekilde ayarlanır. Hem sürüş hemde yol şartlarının ortalamasına göre bir çok sürücüye ve yola uyacak şekilde bir ortalama ayar yapılıp patentlenir. Gaz pozisyonu ve sistemin uyguladığı bazı algoritmalar esas alınır. Bazı motor markaları spin başladıktan sonra ne kadarına izin verileceğine göre, bazı markalar gazın açıklık ve devir durumuna göre tepki verecek şekilde imâl edilmiştir. Dolayısıyla bu motorlarda gazı tam çekmek istenen faydalardan yararlanamamak demektir. En azından %90 potansiyel faydası boşa gider.

Buradaki ince nokta şudur; gazı biraz, spin başlatacak noktaya kadar açacaksınız, sistemin devreye gireceği noktaya kadar. Dönemeç çıkışlarında gazın sistemin biraz önünde açılması gereklidir ki motor dik duruma gelebilsin. Sistem fazla spinlerle savrulmaya izin vermesin. Yani sistem %40 gaz açıldığında devreye giriyorsa siz gazı sistemin biraz önünde %45 yada 50 olarak açacaksınız. Bu her viraj çıkışında esas alınacak noktadır. Biraz spin olacaktır. Yani sistem hem spini hemde yol tutuşunu kontrol ediyordur ve geri beslemesinide gazın pozisyonundan alıyordur. Bu durum sistemden en üst faydayı sağlar. Nihai amaç zaten gaz pozisyonuna göre azami faydayı sağlamaktır.

Gazı duruma uygun kullanmanız sistemin bir çok değişik yol tutunma şartlarına uygun tepki vermesi demektir. Bu sistem esasta yarışlardaki hız performansını artırrmak için yapılmıştır. Ama yeterince bilinçli olursrak yollarda da işe yarar.

ÖLÜME YAKIN DENEYİMLER

NDE(OYD)

Benim gibi ölüme yakın klinik ölüm vakaları yaşıyanların ruhları bölünüyor. Bir yarımız burada ve diğer yarımız orada kalıyor. Kendimde hissettiğim farklılıklar sonucunda benimle aynı şekilde klinik ölüm deneyimi yaşamış insanları araştırınca, yazılanlardan bu sonuca vardım.

Bu deneyi yaşıyan başkaları beni anlayacaklardır. Umarım...

Ben kesinlikle şijofren değilim. Bilime inanırım ama bilimle bilimi uyguyanları karıştırmamak lazım. Ameliyat masasında kalp krizi geçirip ölmeme sebeb olan doktorlardı. Bilim değil doktor hatası idi. Öldüğümü gördüm. Nefes almamı kendim durdurdum ve çıktım. Sonra yanıma ruhsal kardeşim (Yeshua) geldi ve bana korkma seni yaşatacağım; Tanrı sana ikinci bir şans verdi diyerek sağ elinin işaret ve orta parmaklarını boğazıma sürdü ve nefes almaya başladım. Bu gerçektir çünkü komadan çıktığımda, canlandırma bölümünde yaşayanlardan birinin ruhunu bedeninin dışında, orada görmüştüm, bu defa yanımdaki yatakta yatmakta olduğunu gördüm. 18 yaşında olduğunu öğrendiğim o genç kız 3 gün sonra vefat etti ve doktorların terimi ile fişini çektiler.
Şimdi sizler bunlara gülebilirsiniz de, ama, bu beni hiç etkilemez. Ben bunları buram buram yaşadım. O günden beride öbür tarafla irtibatım hiç kesilmedi. Kabirde olan bazı ruhlar azapları başlar diye uyanmak bile istemiyorlar. Tanrıyı unutmayın. Sevgi ve barış yolundan, doğruluktan ayrılmayın.

Doğru yoldan ayrılmayın. Kabirden çıkamayanların durumu çok feci. Katiller ve Tanrı adını nefslerine alet ederek din tüccarlığı ve din siyaseti yapanlar en baştalar malesef. Yine büyü, insan hür iradesine müdahale peşinde olanlar aynı katagoride. Bunlar ebedi ölümü tatmayı bekliyorlar. Azap içindeler.

Bazıları ise kabre bile girmeden ışığa alınıyor. Kalbi temiz olanlar ve dünyevi takıntısı kalmamış olanlar kabre girmiyor. Bazıları kabirde bir müddet şuuraltlarındaki kayıtları gerçek gibi yaşıyor. Çok çeşitli durumlar var. Ayrıca orada kimseye din, kitap vs sorulmuyor. Kalplerin(ruhların) rengi zaten ortaya çıkıyor. Başka varlıklara acı çektirenlere bu acılar aynen gerçekmiş gibi yaşatılıyor. Neticede bir kısım karanlığa bir kısımda ışığa kavuşurken bazılarıda az bir ışıkta eğitimlere tabi tutulurak yeniden bedenlenme şansı verilmesini bekliyorlar. Dünya sınav yeri.

Esen kalın.
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